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麺屋 味方 (Menya Mikata in Shimbashi, Tokyo)

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麺屋 味方

In 2021 I made it a mission to go to every highly ranked Jiro-style mazesoba aka junk-style ramen spot within a 300km radius. Why yes, I do want garlic with that. For the uninitiated, this style tops thick noodles with raw garlic, pork back fat, some MSG-heavy seasoning, and whatever “junk” toppings the shopkeeper want to put on the menu. Vigorously mix it and enjoy.

Mikata’s collection of sunny plants on the windowsills is quite the contrast to the ramen served inside.

Ramen (without the soup), fish flakes, egg, and cheese. Spice it up your way. You can also choose kimchi, onions, sansho oil, or curry powder. These are the paid toppings. Soupless ramen here comes plenty of free accompaniments as well. It’s a junk thing.

Ramen, soupless ramen, spicy ramen, and shio ramen. Though I was here for the soupless stuff, most of the customers were enjoying the regular ramen. As with most Jiroesque shops, you can have extra noodles, up to 500g, for no extra charge. The Standard is 200g. If you were wondering, 500 grams of fresh noodles becomes 880 grams after boiling. That’s almost two pounds! To be honest, I often ask for less at this kind of place. If memory serves me, I went with 150g.

The larger-than-average bowls make this one look tiny. Nothing is further from the truth. This one is a massive bowl of flavors, fat, and calories. Mix it up and feel very, very good about your life. The chashu is especially nice. Thick-cut and tender. Mikata sometimes does a Jiro-inspired sandwich pork bun. It might only be early morning.

The free toppings, also known as the “call,” are all written on the wall. Be ready for the コール. Just before your bowl is ready, the master will ask you what toppings you want. Feel free to go futsu for a bit of everything, or get extra mashi of any of these.

野菜 yasai vegetables

ニンニク ninniku garlic

アブラ abura backfat

カラメ karame tare seasoning

フライドオニオン fried onion

マヨネーズ mayonaise

ゆず胡椒 yuzukosho spice

ごま油 gomayu sesame oil

It’s all part of the fun. As expected, I loved it.

Expect a bit of a wait, these shops are always very popular with so-called jirorians.

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