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灯花 (Toka in Shinjuku)

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鯛塩そば 灯花

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I accidentally went to Toka’s first shop recently. Their first shop specializes in shio tsukemen, and it was wonderful. Certainly not a mistake I regret. And certainly not a difficult one to remedy. The second shop, their new one, is only half a block away.

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This one is also a shio, or salt based soup. But what sets it apart from the rest of the chicken and pork loving world is that the soup is made exclusively with tai, a kind of snapper fish. Fish is the only animal that goes into this one, meaning that the other ingredients, kelp and vegetables, need to be perfectly balanced to work.

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And they are. This is an elegant, beautiful bowl of ramen. Just a touch of yuzu zest for a bit of an aroma.

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I spoke with the chef, and he assured me that the only meat is the single piece of chashu on top. Pescatarians can rest assured that this is not only a bowl they can slurp, but a bowl that they can really enjoy.

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東京都新宿区舟町12-13
Tokyo, Shinjuku-ku, Funamachi 12-13
Closest station: Akebonobashi

Open 11:00-15:00, 17:00-24:00
Closed Sundays

 

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