無頼庵

I am NOT a Jirorian. A Jirorian cares not for the stink of garlic that seeps from his pores. A Jirorian can pinpoint the minor differences between the Jiro branch in Nishi-Shinjuku and the Jiro branch in Kabukuicho, a five minute walk away. A Jirorian thinks that bean sprouts count as a healthy topping.

And when a new Jiro-style shop opens, I don’t really care.

But when a Jiro-style shop called Buraian opens, I take note. Because that is my name! I’m Brian!

In typical Jiro-style fashion, a single shred of cabbage was the only spec of health in this bowl. In typical fashion, I felt like crap after eating it. In typical fashion, the soup is rich and porky and delicious.

Then I was hit was some of the best news of 2013. I asked the master what 無頼庵 means. 無頼 – burai – means villainy, non-trust. 庵- an – means hermitage. Put them together, and buraian means desperado. A bad-ass dude, living day to day by his own rules.

When I first came to Japan, some Japanese friends wrote my name as 武雷安, a nonsense grouping of Chinese characters for samurai, thunder, and cheap.

I’ll take desperado any day.

東京都世田谷区経堂2-14-13
Tokyo, Setagaya-ku, Kyodo 2-14-13
Closest station: Kyodo

Open 11:30-15:00, 18:00-22:00

Ramen Adventures

Ramen Shop Reviews from Japan and Abroad

無頼庵 (Buraian in Kyodo)

次郎長 (Jirocho at the Sapporo Airport)

麺巧潮 (Ushio in Ogawamachi)

Jeju Noodle Bar in New York

無頼庵 (Buraian in Kyodo)

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次郎長 (Jirocho at the Sapporo Airport)

麺巧 潮 (Ushio in Ogawamachi)

Jeju Noodle Bar in New York

麺巧潮 (Ushio in Ogawamachi)