蘭州料理ザムザムの泉 (Zamuzamu no Izumi in Hiroo, Tokyo)

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蘭州料理ザムザムの泉

Zamuzamu no Izumi, the surprise hit from Saitama, recently moved from the depths of the country to one of the most desirable parts of Tokyo, Hiroo. They still make the noodles by hand on the spot. They still craft a wonderful beef broth reminiscent of their master’s childhood in China. This is still a must-try example of Lanzhou beef noodle (蘭州牛肉面) in Tokyo. I’ve had the stuff around Japan and in China at the source. Zamuzamu is tops.

Lanzhou City in Gansu Province was an important part of the Silk Road in China. Many cultures came together here, and the food reflected this. The Silk Road was also the birthplace of noodles. One part noodles, one part cheap eats, and one big part ethnically Muslim Hui people led to this noodle dish. There are thousands of beef noodle restaurants in west China. Most are very inexpensive with a simple broth and noodles pulled on the spot.

The move to one of Tokyo’s most expensive neighborhoods also means the prices went up. The cheapest option is “Enju” which comes with a small plate and a bowl of noodles. While the old shop would run you around $15, it is now closer to $30. The more expensive “Kinjo” set comes with medicinal soup (季節の薬膳スープ料理) and some herbal tea.

Beef bones are simmered for over eight hours. When I was in the northwest of China sampling this food years ago, I felt the flavors were weak. Not so at Zamu Zamu no Izumi. The soup is made with 18 different spices. The beef is tender. The homemade chili oil is just hot enough to give a bit of a kick.

You get what you pay for here. This is a special bowl. If you compare it with other ramen shops, the cost is high. Compare it with high-end Chinese food in the area, and it’s quite affordable. It’s all about perspective.

Noodles are pulled on the spot.

Expect your dish to take some time. The lines in Hiroo weren’t as long as Saitama, so that is a bonus of the move.

I’ve tried a few different kinds of noodles here, and I think the thinner ones are the way to go. Mega-thick lasagne-looking noodles seem fun, but they are not easy to eat. There are five to choose from. Three are flat and two are round. The above are the thin round noodles (二細 – アーシー) and below are the thin flat noodles (窄韮葉 – ヂャイジゥイェ). The old shop had nine options. Though it isn’t posted, you could probably ask the master to make you one of the super thick noodles, though I enjoyed the “normal” noodles much more.

For the noodles nerds out there, 二細 are supposedly the most difficult style of noodle to master. The naming is confusing as well. Thin (細) is followed by two-thin (二細) which is followed by three-thin (三細).

Official site here.

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